Our Process

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Pattern & Fit

Source inspiration happens everyday, all day. I get the most inspired by old movies, vintage looks, interiors and color patterns in everyday life. I try to build an arsenal of what’s inspiring me for the 1-2 months leading up to designing a season. It always starts by asking myself what I would want to wear everyday. What is missing from my life in a way.

Sometimes the magic happens while the samples are actually being made, so I always allow room for this to take place. I create embellishment samples and mix paint colors by hand, or work with one of our skilled sample makers in LA when the execution is more complicated

Our fits go through many changes in development, but all of our fits are based off of our original cut– the Tate. The fittings happen in raw fabric to ensure we are fitting the more exact version of the jean.

For our base fit, the Tate, we probably had more than 40 fittings over 11 months. We wanted to create a jean that could be as legendary and classic as the 501. Something timeless.

Cutting & Sewing

Cutting happens in bulk. The raw fabric is laid down in layers and laser cut to be as precise as possible according to the wash pattern. This version of the pattern accounts for some extra room for the fabric to shrink up in the wash process. It's our main pattern, but with added allowance according to how much the designated wash will shrink the fabric.

The sewing stage takes the longest. This is where most of the technical miracles happen. There are so many intricate details that go into putting a pair of jeans together and every centimeter counts, especially by the butt! This is where the magic happens with our fit on a technical level.

Washing & Drying

The jeans are still raw (indigo) at this stage. The wash essentially chips away at the indigo to create a certain look, sometimes bleach or stones are used... There are endless ways and formulas to wash jeans to achieve the desired final wash. This is a super technical skill and most wash technicians have been doing so for many many years as it takes precision and sort of intuitive feel for it.

The beauty of washing the jeans raw and sewn is that the seam areas gather or hold onto the indigo, we call this look “railroading.” Each jean washes down differently. This is a really special and beautiful part of denim: no two are ever the same.

The jeans then go into industrial dryers. Once out of the dryer, we get to see the final wash (how it looks dry)

Painting & Embellishing

This stage often requires the most work, as our embellishments are all done by hand. We actually have to undo many of the seams in order to align everything. It then takes about 1-2 hours to mix the paint, then about an hour to set up the screens and make sure everything is aligned. Once everything is set up, it takes 1-2 days to complete one leg. When the painting is complete on both legs, we sew all the seams back up. Finish again.

Some embellishments require us to flip this process around. For something like the Shibori Tate, the embellishment begins in the sewing process, where we apply 6 extra seams down the legs before we wash with them. Post wash, we take them out to reveal a really beautiful ombre shibori look. For the Color Block Childhood. This jean begins as a short (cut and sewn), gets washed, then goes back into the sewing stage to get a darker, unwashed denim applied to the legs.

Finshing

The jeans get trimmed of all their spare threads and get checked for any defects. Any final elements of embellishment, like shanks, rivets and woven trims (labels), are applied.

Our SH gets embroidered on every pair, the jeans are steamed, tagged, and packed.